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Will Hipsters Abandon PBR?

 

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So, one of the New Year's resolutions of this blog is to blog more. So, to that end, I got a digital camera thinking that the photographs I take would occasion a thought. Here goes. This underexposed beauty was taken at Brother Jimmy's near MSG - literally around the corner from the store I got the camera in.

I ask: What has happened to Pabst Blue Ribbon? Less than a decade ago Pabst had to close its Milwaukee operations and move to Texas. Then in 2001, at the lowest of the low, one bar in Portland, Oregon switches from a local brew to Pabst, and one barbershop in that same city starts to carry it.

Suddenly, I discovered a world in New York where bearded hipsters played Kings of Leon records at bars that offered "Blue Collar Tuesday" specials to those  (usually unbearded middle-aged souls) who showed their union cards. These bars invariably smell like urine. Now two years later, here it is being sold in a top flight sports-bar chain in NYC right next to Madison Square Garden.

uploaded-file-33878I can't precisely explain how a product goes from iconicly boring brand, to being hip overnight, except to say that precisely because it was so iconicly boring - and cheap - PBR was a prime target for a cohort that has tried to rehabilitate mutton-chop facial hair and Southern Rock. Now that PBR is in places like Brother Jimmy's - an establishment whose only hipster cache is that until a year ago it occasionally played Ben Folds Five records while the patrons scarfed down buffalo wings and NBA playoff upsets -- I think it is safe to say that PBR will decline in status-value to hipsters. One beer brand that is particularly well suited to the next hipster renovation is Schaefer - just get a load of that perfectly down-market authentic can design. It just so happens, Schaefer was purchased by Pabst in 1999.

And it even has a perfect YouTube video.  

 

 

But if I had to guess, my bet is that young people begin rejecting the ironic embrace of long-defunct brands, and begin once again to ironicly embrace the almost-defunct projects of major corporate brands. Expect to see lots of Bud Ice at the hipest bars near you.  I close my eyes and hear the faint strains of a Feist CD and an idiot 24 yr. old in a mustache explaining that, "The ad guys at A.B. [that's Anheuser Busch] have wanted to dump the Ice for years man. They don't even know what they've got!"

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Reader Comments (10)

You are definitely right that PBR is declining in hip-ness; my favorite hipster bar stopped serving it about a month ago. They haven't stocked Schaefer or Bud Ice yet; evidently Tecate is cheap and ironic enough.
1/2/2008 09:29 PM | Unregistered Commenterjacobus
Tecate is what I've been seeing around too.

I think Schaefer's a good call though, I'm going to keep my fingers crossed for it.
1/3/2008 02:08 AM | Unregistered CommenterAlex
I like the Bud Ice suggestion. I think Tecate seems too normal to me having lived in Texas, but I could see regional brews like Lone Star or Dixie enjoying some promenance. Will the ironic blue collar thing ever go away. I thought I saw its death throes with the trucker caps, but it keeps coming back to life.

I'd like to see something really edgy like white people wearing Fiske and Tennessee State t-shirts, but I don't think it's going to happen because of the conformist views on the insensitivity of that sort of thing. That all said, I love the annual Southern Grambling game and I don't care if everyone from Tupac to Sam Francis thinks it's silly.
1/3/2008 10:28 AM | Unregistered CommenterRoach
I'm enjoying blogging again.
1/3/2008 10:51 AM | Registered CommenterMichael Brendan Dougherty
I really truly wish people would stop confusing kitsch and irony. On behalf of my generation I apologize.

I also must apologize for our insistence that sincerity and stupidity are the same phenomenon.
1/3/2008 05:29 PM | Unregistered Commenterellenbrenna
Yes, as you noted, Portland resurrected PBR and did so while in the midst of building a world-class microbrewing industry. I feel fortunate to have been a brewer at Portland Brewing Company between '94-97'. Even though we aspired to create the sort of consistency one sees in Budweiser, Coors, and Miller, we were loath to acknowledge it. If Portland can drive another trend, it may be in our rapidly scaling adoption of Miller High Life. It is the "The Champagne of Beers" you know.

For those who missed PBR's sleight of hand, pick up a copy of "Brand Hijack: Marketing Without Marketing" by Alex Wipperfurth. It explains the slick moves made by Pabst to look as though they had nothing to do with the fad. It's also nice to see Portland Hipsters taken down a notch!
1/4/2008 04:17 PM | Unregistered CommenterChristopher Harley
I met a real cool dude with an awesome 'stache who was in charge of PBR marketing in Orlando. Seemed like a nice guy, and I'll have a PBR to keep him off the dole.
1/8/2008 05:31 PM | Unregistered CommenterRoach
That Schaefer jingle brings me back to those wistful days of summer in the New Jersey suburbs, watching the Mets on channel 9 with Lindsay Nelson and Bob Murphy doing the announcing.
1/8/2008 10:09 PM | Unregistered CommenterSuibhne
That should be LindsEy Nelson.
1/8/2008 10:13 PM | Unregistered CommenterSuibhne
Interesting post even if I'm not sure of the subtext.
What's a "hipster"? Isn't half the young middle-class male population in the USA at least semi-hipster in intent (the vanity tattoo rule)? Isn't being a hipster then being a conformist in emulation of something they aren't, meaning hipsters can never be hip because it's unhip to conform, thus the diminutive "-ster" suffix? The popularity/quality metrics shouldn't be clouded-up by groupies.

Maybe your hook should be "Irish bar". That makes more sense.

ANYWAY! My stab: PBR is/was a staple brew at Enlisted Clubs (usmc) and was lionized (naively or not) by many grunts as a connection to heartland (usually rural) America (as opposed to the current location the grunts found themselves stationed at the time). It was good ol' American beer and definitely not frou-frou. It was the C&W beer. The proud "goat ropers'" beer.

Maybe in time of war, it's "reliability" is being touted more than ever in letters and in imaginations. So "hipsters", being conformists (or ex-military) latch-on.

Epilogue: PBR is very drinkable, so it stands on its own. Any beer that's not overpriced, not too sweet or too malty, and not watery lite beer, is good. I've drank great beer around the world (Ganter, San Miguel, etc), but here in the USA I've settled for drinking good ol' $7.49/12-pk Olympia. Not bad. Or, if on sale, Dos Equis Ambar.
1/13/2008 05:54 PM | Unregistered CommenterbryanD

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